I am always trying to learn more about the natural dye process. Mostly, this is to become a better dyer, but there is also an intellectual curiosity that keeps me asking questions, testing, and observing. Joy Boutrup, my co-author of The Art and Science of Natural Dyes, is a textile chemist and engineer. She has generously explained so much to me over the years, giving me a glimpse of the logic behind all of our dyeing processes, but never overwhelming me with the technicality of the chemistry.
Last summer, Joy and I were teaching at Penland School of Crafts at the same time as Tim McLaughlin and Charllotte Kwon of Maiwa. It was there I learned of the chemistry class for dyers that they had been developing. In a desire to learn more and expand my ability to understand process, I enrolled in the class, Natural Dyes: Alchemy Chemistry Craft when it was offered for the first time. The class is presented in 18 separate modules, each a seriously “deep dive” into electrons, molecules, acids, bases, and the nature of plants that we use in our processes. Each lesson is presented in video format by Tim and Charllotte with printable notes that link directly to the video script.
To be honest, much of it was over my head, as I do NOT have a chemical background.
The class is not a practical “how-to” of dyeing, but instead, a serious look into the principles behind the process. As the lessons progressed, I found myself making connections and the processes that I know well were explained even further. There is a reason for each of the steps we use in the dye process, whether we see them, understand them, or not.
Several of my colleagues also took the class. Early this year, when the class was offered for a second time, several other colleagues enrolled. So, a small group of 7 serious and curious dyers decided that we would go through the class together. This would give us an opportunity to discuss, compare notes, and work through the class together. An enrolled student has three years to access the videos but the printable notes are yours forever, making them a valuable studio reference.
Our “Study Group” members are located all across the US. We opted to do our watching/reading separately and come together once a week via zoom to discuss a single module.
We tried this for a few weeks, but then decided that we needed a deeper focus to smaller parts of each module. Each of us now takes on the responsibility to further explore, research, and understanding one (or two) aspects of a module. This allows for more in-depth research, more focused questions, and possible dye/process testing and observing. When we complete this series of modules, I do believe that we could start all over again, and still learn more about the dye/chemical process.
Understanding and practicing natural dye is a never ending process. Learning WHY we do things is key to being our best as dyers.
During the first chemistry class in the fall of 2023, we received the shocking and sad news that Tim McLaughlin had passed away very suddenly. No one in the Maiwa family or in our larger community of dyers was prepared for this. It made continuing with the class difficult at that time, but now I feel that we are honoring Tim by continuing to learn from what he has created. We miss him dearly.
I am awe of the work that Tim and Charllotte put into this class – in order to make all of us better dyers.
Maiwa is offering the dye chemistry class once again this spring…. Serious dyers should consider taking this class and I would highly recommend working with a group of colleagues in the process.
Link to Maiwa Teachable: Natural Dyes: Alchemy Chemistry Craft
Tim and Charllotte taught an ink making class at Penland School of Crafts in the summer 2023. At the same time, Joy and I were teaching a weaving and natural dye class together. We had so much to discuss after long days in the studios! This is where I first learned of Maiwa’s upcoming science class for dyers.
Natural Dye: Experiments and Results 
I walk a parallel path to yours except I don’t have Joy.
I was excited when Maiwa offered the chemistry class and was not disappointed as I am not a student of chemistry either.
Maiwa takes us into consideration with all the class they offer. I took Tim’s ink class also.
Michel told me to use my eyes and my head. His current tutorials continue to be a source of information. Yes he always leaves us with more unanswered questions.
Yes, I always remember Michel’s frustration with dyers ONLY wanting th recipe…but it’s so much more than that. Thank you Judy!
Catherine,
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I don’t think you will be sorry – AWED, maybe!
It has been an interesting, rewarding journey. Thanks for the invitation to join the group. Definitely sinking in better the second time around.
Hi Catharine, I wanted to let you know that I used “lye water” in an iron vat with the goal of reducing the sludge at the bottom of the vat. The pH was not high enough on it’s own so I did have to add some calcium hydroxide but much less than I would have needed if it was all calcium. The vat worked out great, I used it in a class and have a small one in my studio which seems to stay reduced for long periods of time. I am liking this vat for cellulose. I also wanted to ask if you think the Maiwa class would be good for someone who has a pretty solid but certainly not complete background in Chemistry. I’ve been looking at and been tempted by this class but I want to make sure there is enough depth to justify the price for me. Your recent post has prompted me to consider it again. Thank you as always for your advice, Joyce
Joyce, When I took the class for the first time, there was more than one trained chemist in the class. What I heard from them was “I wish that this is the way I had been taught”. Chemistry has not been “dumbed down”. In fact there is more than I can take in…You would likely get a lot more out of the class than I could.
Great, I’m going to sign up!
Catharine, I am so pleased that you have mentioned the MAIWA science class. I am still working my way through the class, and am finding it to be invaluable…..layers of information which I can approach at my own pace. The format fits my learning style, and I’m on the road to a clearer understanding of my studio processes. As I saw this post, I actually had both my MAIWA notebook and your book on my desk! Thanks.
Thank YOU, Sally!
Dear Catherine,
I also took the chemistry class and it helped me immensely in making connections and uncover valuable insights. Meanwhile, I am going through the course a second time. It makes so much sense to test out a lot more. However, I’ve noticed that without a sounding board for questions and reflections, navigating the complexities of the subject can be challenging
Indeed, Tim is sorely missed, despite I never had the opportunity to meet him in person.
Maiwa’s other courses have a follow-up group on facebook, I wonder is they could establish a similar forum for this course. Then we will have reflection from dyers all over the world. By the way, I’m based in Europe
I think that the facebook forum s a good idea and you should definitely ask Maiwa about it. I will inquire as well.
Thank you Catharine for sharing such a beautiful experience. I have read it only once and I already know I will read it many more times. I was introduced to natural dyes in 2011 and then botanical printing in 2014, I feel it is a fascinating world. I really like to practice and learn, but I recognize that I am not as dedicated and studious as you. This message will be an incentive to dedicate more time to studying. Thank you again and a hug 🫂 from Chile, Susana
El vie, 19 de abr. de 2024 6:40 a. m., Natural Dye: Experiments and Results
Thank you for this…so kind!
Dear Catherine I am so, so grateful for your blog about this wonderful and very exciting course. The Art and Science of Natural Dyes has been a constant companion to me and I have been yearning for a chemistry course for dyers. So I’ve signed up straightaway. With very best wishes and thanks for your leadership in the natural dye community. Susan Dye Natures Rainbow Hitchin, UK
Thank you Susan, for you kind words. Do gather a group of curious colleagues, if you can, and go through the class together. You will not regret it!