Eucalyptus – What’s in the dye?

Eucalyptus is not native to where I live but I have watched dyers (with a bit of envy) from other parts of the world use these plants as a source of color and tannin. Each year I grow a plant or two for experimentation. These experiments have led me to some interesting observations.

The variety commonly found at our local garden center is Silver Dollar Gum (Eucalyptus cinerea). A friend, visiting from Australia, fondly recognized it in the garden as “gummy”. It will grow as an annual here and I always dry the round “silver dollar” leaves for dye. Sometimes I can even acquire them amongst the floral arrangements in the local grocery store. This year I had a additional  variety (Eucalyptus globulus). It was grown by a friend from seeds that she brought from a tree in her yard in Ethiopia.

Dye tests were done on wool, both with and without an alum mordant, using dried leaves at 100% of the weight of fiber. Plants contain many different colorants. In the case of the Eucalyptus leaves, they contain both a flavonol and a tannin. The flavonols are typically yellow in color and require a mordant to attach to the fiber. The tannins  produce a variety of colors and do not require a mordant.

I placed non-mordanted wool fabric in the bath with the leaves. It was brought to a low simmer (approximately 190 degrees F). The color was slow to come but after about 2 hours the Eucalyptus cinerea resulted in a deep red/orange, while the Eucalyptus globulus  turned a deep brown.

Eucalyptus cinerea (left) and Eucalyptus globulus (right) on non-mordanted wool

Alum-mordanted wool was dyed in a separate bath. The fiber quickly (within 30 minutes) turned a brilliant yellow from both varieties of eucalyptus. I removed some of the fiber from the dyebath when the yellow was still bright. As the rest of the fiber stayed in the bath, the tannins were released, changing the color of the wool from yellow to either a deep yellow/orange or a yellow brown. After two hours in the bath the mordanted fiber had been dyed by BOTH the flavonol and the tannin.

Version 2
Eucalyptus cinerea: (left to right) no mordant, 2 hour bath with mordant, 30 minute bath with mordant


Eucalyptus globulus: (left to right) no mordant, 2 hour bath with mordant, 30 minute bath with mordant

Several years ago I heard Michel Garcia say that the clearest yellow color from plants may come at the beginning of a dyebath, before any tannins are extracted. As the fiber stays in the bath with the dyestuff, the tannins are released and the color becomes deeper and duller. The eucalyptus is a dramatic illustration of this principle but other plant materials also indicate the same principle.

Alum mordanted linen fabrics were dyed with small, leafed branches of dyer’s broom (Genista tinctoria). Time in the bath ranged from 15 minutes to 2 hours. The most brilliant yellow was achieved after 30 minutes. After that time the color got deeper and duller, most likely from the tannins released.
Henna, (Lawsonia intermis) which contains flavonols (mainly luteolin), naphthaquinone (lawsone) and tannins: (left to right) mordanted wool 30 minutes in bath, mordanted wool 1 hour in bath, un-mordanted wool 1 hour in bath. The mordanted wool is slightly more yellow than the sample with mordant.

I have not yet completed lightfastness tests on any of these samples but they are in process.  I would guess that the deeper, tannin-rich colors will be more lightfast than the brighter flavonols.

23 thoughts on “Eucalyptus – What’s in the dye?

  1. Hi Catherine, What a beautiful and informative Article on the eucalyptus dyeing! I think all of the colors are beautiful And it is so cool to be able to get that Variety with one plant! I really love The darkish red after 2 hours in the dyebath. Thank you for this information. I think I will be experimenting with some Eucalyptus this winter! Cheers, Kathleen Lopes

    Sent from my iPhone


  2. Interesting! Did you create a dye bath before putting the wool in or did the wool and the leaves go into the water at the same time? Thanks!

  3. JUST stumbled across your blog and so coincidental that just the other night I finally sat down and did up a euc cin batch! It was a bunch that had been drying down my basement for over a year. I stripped the leaves off the stems and simmered them up separately (quick rinsed the dust off first!) After 2 hours, the stem bath had turned a dark red and the leaves an orangey-rusty-brown. Thank you for the flavo vs tannin explanation…now I have a better idea how to control the color!

  4. the interesting thing about eucalyptus (which also contain quercitrons, btw) is that the dye takes differently if the fresh dyebath is allowed to cool first, and then re-heated. also, when testing samples (particularly with E.cinerea) it’s amusing to prepare two pots of dye and 24 (or so) samples. to one pot, add the samples at 5 minute intervals…in the other, put all the samples in and then take them out at 5 minute intervals. in my local water (pH neutral, no added mordants), i ended up with two quite differently coloured sets of swatches.

  5. Thank you for sharing this info. Now I understand the mixed color results I have seen on various blogs.I have a Gummy plant in my VA garden, but it is recovering from a harsh winter. So I will supplement with the ‘bouquets’ of eucalyptus sold at Trader Joe’s for a couple dollars. They appear to contain 2 or three different types with different leaf shapes.

  6. So excited about this blog post. We have several different varieties of eucalyptus; a tree and some ornamentals that are grown in our area for the floral industry. Thank you for the inspiration!

  7. Hallo, I am an italian based apassionate for natural dyeing. In my region their is a lot of Dyers greenweld,i tried it with cotton without resault (pre-morder with tannin acid and allume). I see that you achive THOSE colors on linen.
    Could you please revel the secret?

    1. I am not secretive about dye recipes but I have chosen not to put recipes on the blog. I do share them in the context of a class, or publications where there is ample time or space to discuss the reasoning behind the recipe. When recipes are given out without proper explanations I find that dyers get even more confused.

      I have included some recipes in my Woven Shibori book and this may be a good place to start but it is not a comprehensive dye book. Joy Boutrup and I are currently working on a more in-depth book on natural dye process that allows us to discuss the principles, as well as provide many recipes that will be of use to the dyer. We are hoping for a publication date in the second half of 2018.

      I hope you understand.

      Joy and I will be teaching a two day workshop focused on cellulose printing and dyeing at the ETN conference in Borås Sweden in September 2017.

      1. Dear Catharine,i have finished to read your blog and i found (maybe) the answer for my problem. Thank you so much for being inspirative even if for obviouse reasons you share just a piece of your knowlidge. I am waiting for your book wich i bought couple days ago. Even if i am not a weaver,the way of thinking,trying to do it as much professional and meaningfull as possible is something what entusiate me. Sorry for my bad english,if i don’t express myself corretly.
        I wish you all the best! Paola

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